Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/370921
28 G O I N G P L A C E S | F A L L 2 0 1 4 GLP/VARIETY CRUISES the dots and wandered down roughly cobble- stoned side streets punctuated with the occa- sional modest family-run sandwich shop. We purchased a postcard at a government store overstaffed with bored clerks, visited a crowded outdoor market for a handmade leather purse monogrammed on the spot and lined up at a CADECA (Casa de Cambio) for the privilege of changing Canadian dollars into Cuban government-authorized CUCs (con- verted pesos). Old Havana is seductive. Many of the mar- vellous baroque, neo-classical, art deco and art nouveau buildings have been restored to for- mer glories – at least on the façade. e sec- ondary streets, while in disrepair, are almost always clean. There is no advertising to be seen, and scant street signage. ere are few cars and no threat of crime. It is tempting as a tourist to view things romantically since many of the irritating and stressful aspects of mod- ern Canadian life are missing here. Old Havana, and it is very old indeed, feels fresh and pure. But this is not a shabby-chic movie set, and we suspect the reality for Cubans is more complex and challenging. Back on board and sailing from María la Gorda to Isla de la Juventud, the second-larg- est island in Cuba, I am reminded of what attracted us to this ship: its size and ability to slip into tiny ports and anchorages unreach- able by the oating resorts. is is cruising on a small scale; still a niche industry but with the explosion of interest in small-ship river cruis- ing in particular, a growing travel trend. T wo cities and a beach remain on our adjusted journey. Cienfuegos is a pros- perous maritime town with the Paseo del Prado pedestrian mall and Tomas Terry Theatre – which hosted Enrico Caruso and Sarah Bernhardt in the 1920s – both within easy walking distance of the ship. We bus with excursion guide Joanny to two other astonishing buildings, the Palacio de Valle with Cienfuegos boasts a group of historic buildings, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.