Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/299622
roseanna schick S U M M E R 2 0 1 4 | g o i n g p l a c e s 21 many turn-of- the- centur y graves, their inscriptions leaving much to the imagination. Take Grimolfur Olafsson, born in 1826 and died in 1903. What happened in between, I'll never know. But I'll bet he loved this place. Commercial fishing was Hecla Island's main industry for many years, and the tiny settlement (pop. 500) prospered. When fish- ing became unprofitable, families moved away in search of other employment. In the late 1960s, to save the rapidly dwindling commu- nity, the remaining residents approached the Manitoba government to develop a provincial park. It officially opened in 1975. en in the late 1970s, a federal-provincial government project saw a resort built on the island, intended to attract tour- ists to the new provincial park . W hile summers were busy, it was challeng- ing to keep rooms filled in winter. Originally called Gull Harbour Resort, it was sold off privately in 2005, eventually going into receivership and clos- ing for a few years. Lake- view Management Inc. acquired, renovated and reopened it as the Lakeview Hecla Resort in the spring of 2013. (e company oversees 34 hotels across Canada, including the Lake- view Resort and Conference Centre in Gimli and the brand-new Grand Winnipeg Airport Hotel at the Winnipeg International Airport.) While previous operators positioned the resort for the business market, Lakeview has taken a family-friendly approach in pric- ing and environment – and markets mainly to Manitobans. I'm here to check out this getaway destination offering recreational activities year-round in Hecla's natural play- ground setting. S pacious and contemporary, the lobby's green, blue and earth tones make for a warm and inviting welcome. A wall of windows facing out back reveals grounds and gardens, with majestic Lake Winnipeg as the backdrop. Just off a hallway behind reception is Salka Spa, an Icelandic name meaning peace. e menu of services is sorted into sections titled relax, rejuvenate and rewind – all of which describe my Vanilla Swirl Massage & Hydro erapy Soak. e milky aromatic bath in a gigantic jet tub is simply luxurious, and the glass of milk on the side is a nice touch. All I'm missing is a cookie. Over at the aquatic area, the sprawling indoor-outdoor space is separated into two sides: waterpark with three-storey waterslide, family pool and lazy river; and adult-only zone with hydrokinetic pool, mineral bath, hydro- therapy hot tub, cold Nordic plunge and aroma-infused steam room. I'm tempted to plunk down in a poolside chair and order something, but instead I decide to go for a more formal table with a view at Seagulls Res- taurant and Lounge. The Seagulls menu is bountiful and con- tains some of my favourite dishes, such as beet salad with goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, greens and tangy balsamic vinaigrette. The fish tacos are divine, made with crispy beer- battered Lake Winnipeg pickerel, zesty chipo- tle sauce and lots of cilantro. Pickerel fillets prepared for the dinner entrée are lightly pan- fried in olive oil, lemon and butter, served steaming and tender alongside wild rice and veggies. The wines poured are all Canadian. They also make one of the best versions of Canada's national cocktail that I've ever had. Being a Bloody Caesar connoisseur, I love ordering them when I travel. I've been known to bring my own bottle of Mott's into Ameri- can lounges. Hecla's version is impressive – a gigantic spicy concoction topped with lime and an entire skewer of garnish goodies. The 65 guest rooms and 25 suites are designed in the same thoughtful Scandinavian style as the lobby. My suite is drenched in natural daylight streaming through the sky- light and windows as tall as the wall. e bath- room has two sinks, oval mirrors and a deep soaker tub. The separate seating area has a leather couch and chair. As tempting as it is to hang out here, there's much to see beyond my door, including eyeballing the stunning enlarged photographs taken by Lakeview Man- agement president Keith Levit. In addition to operating hotels, he is an enthusiastic world traveller and photographer. I especially love the hallway images of Icelandic landscapes. The photos inspire me to go out and take some of my own. At the back of the resort is a patio beside a pond with decorative fountains and footbridges arching over reflective waters. Walking closely along the rocky edge of the pond, I can see hoards of tiny frogs hopping about. On the edge of the resort property is a public beach from which extends a peninsula and functioning lighthouse, constructed in 1926 to replace the original from 1898. The three-km Lighthouse Trail passes Lake Winni- peg Narrows on one side and Gull Harbour on the other. When I arrive at the lighthouse, the sky grows oddly dark and storm clouds begin to swirl directly above. e wind blows in strong from the north and I think of the boats that traversed by this point long ago. No doubt they were grateful for the lighthouse signal. I wind my way up the shoreline road to the "seaside" town of Hecla Village, a small place with a slow vibe. With six restored buildings – school, church, community hall, fish station, home and boarding house – it's like a step back in time. A one-km self-guided trail offers a glimpse of what life was like in the early 1900s, revealing tools such as ice saws, chisels and tongs used to haul blocks of lake ice up for ice houses designed to keep the catch fresh. One of the most fascinating buildings is the church, located in the centre of town. A structure steeped in happiness and sadness, it celebrates local life as well as honours the dead. A stroll through the cemetery reveals Restored in the 1970s, the Hecla Church offers a Sunday service in the summer. The 1926 lighthouse still guides vessels around a peninsula. The neigbouring 18-hole golf course and its forest setting. p20-23MadeInManitoba.indd 21 14-04-10 2:22 PM