Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/207624
China Beach marks the start of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail; (below) the Red Creek Fir near Port Renfrew is the world's largest Douglas fir. F WINTER DRIVES THE OTHER PLACE TO STORMWATCHING IN COASTAL B.C. is synonymous with Tofino's mammoth winter swell exploding on impact with the volcanic points of Clayoquot Sound's Esowista Peninsula. But a relatively unknown circuit further south on Vancouver Island also delivers visitors face-to-face with big water and even bigger trees in winter, when Alaskan storms blow into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The Pacific Marine Circle Route, a 255-kilometre loop best started in Victoria's urban civility, winds through Sooke and Port Renfrew's coastal wilds and then east through the rainforested heart of the Island to the North Cowichan. While fully paved in 2009, it's still sparse in winter. The Port Renfrew Hotel lack of visitors is curious given At this scenic locale, the chowder is local and the beer that in a day trip from Victoria, Red Creek Fir is B.C. craft-brewed. The it's possible to watch massive There are no signs to the world's largest patio overlooking San waves, explore tidal pools, picnic Douglas fir (at 74 metres) 25 km northJuan Harbour is a east of Port Renfrew, but hugging a small prime seal- and around a campfire and hug some part of its 12.5-metre circumference eagle-viewing of the biggest and oldest trees on makes finding it so worth it. platform. the planet. –Tom Gierasimczuk Point No Point Resort Botanical Beach Intertidal zones and clear tide pools shelter an aquarium's worth of marine species, from a rainbow of starfish to sea urchins. A network of trails above the beach makes it easy to linger. Sombrio Beach About 20 km west of China Beach is southern Vancouver Island's most famous surfing spot. Sombrio Beach had been a squatters' village from the 1960s until the late '90s and, given its resemblance to Baja on a sunny winter day, it's obvious why. 16 W e s t w o r l d p14-18_Fresh_Tracks.indd 16 >> winter 2013 Fairy Lake A pier lets you stroll out to the middle of this freshwater lake, adding to the surreal nature of the place. China Beach Past the town of Jordan River is the dramatic setting of China Beach at the end of a 15-minute hike through giant old growth. This is the start of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, known as the "West Coast Trail Lite," a moderate multi-day hike all the way up to Port Renfrew's Botanical Beach. Rossland Winter Carnival Stormwatch Cowichan Bay Named North America's first official Slow City for its focus on local foods, the best place to taste the commitment is dinner at the waterfront Masthead. Swartz Bay Ferry This is the lunch spot on the circuit. Make it a picnic by ordering your food to go, getting a code for the trail gate from wait staff, and walking down the 10-minute path to the beach house. Victoria Whiffen Spit In the north end of Sooke, a naturally formed spit is as close as you'll get to the snowy Olympic Peninsula. On a 30-minute walk, you'll find plenty of benches and driftwood where you can sit and soak it all up. East Sooke Park's Aylard Farm Just off Highway 14 is the gateway into the park's 3,500 forested acres intersected with 50 km of trails that lead down to sheltered coves and calm bays – most serving up stunning views of island mountain ranges. 2611-110904 (top) Chris Cheadle/All Canada Photos, (Red Creek Fir) TJ Watt/All Canada Photos 13-11-01 10:26 AM