Port Town
REVIVAL
Falmouth offers sun, sea and Jamaican hospitality –
plus treasures of a plantation past
BY ANDREW FINDLAY
L
GlowImages/Alamy/All Canada Photos, (opposite) Jeff Topham
adonna Findlater and I walk among the weathered
headstones and tombs surrounding the austere
ramparts of William Knibb Memorial Baptist
Church. This cemetery would be fit for a Gothic thriller if it
wasn't for the reggae music floating on a soft Caribbean
breeze from a nearby house, which is festooned in the
black, yellow and green of the Jamaican flag. Here, in 1838,
on the steps of this church in historic Falmouth, the crusading minister and abolitionist William Knibb shouted to a
euphoric crowd gathered on the grounds: "The monster is
dead!" His emphatic declaration heralded the end of slavery
and the emancipation of Jamaica's black population.
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