Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/118157
start. Appropriately, Otis Redding's "Try a Little Tenderness" is playing on the stereo. It could be an unofficial theme song for the man who is proud to practice "whole-animal butchery." He means exactly that, too, for nothing here comes in boxes or in parts; there's no wastage, either. And all of Ritzer's meat hails from small, B.C., family-run farms near organic-sounding places such as Clinton in the Cariboo, Qualicum Beach on the Island and Chilliwack in the Fraser Valley. "It's all 100 per cent grass-fed and openpastured," confirms Ritzer. "For me, the focus is quality of life: animals roaming free and farmers and ranchers who don't use hormones or antibiotics. The meat that I sell is my reputation, and that means I do everything I can to know everything about that animal. Picking up the phone to make a call is one thing, but going out to the farm and well to paint the scene for a 1943 calendar. Meanwhile, in his toque and apron, a big scalpel in his dagger grip, Ritzer gets down to business. Backdropped by the loud electric hum of the fridge and the hanging aluminum fluorescent lights, he looks a bit like Hawkeye from the long-running TV hit series M*A*S*H, with a gruff but sensitive touch. Under race conditions, Ritzer can "break down" a lamb in 30 minutes. It takes the rest of us in this beginner class at least that long just to identify one loin chop amongst the fray. But two hours later, the end result is a textbook tray of cuts, the perfect sum of all its parts and a testament to Ritzer's knife work and knowledge. Suddenly I'm wishing I'd signed up for the day's deluxe class, which wraps with a one-hour cooking lesson and butcher's-table dinner hosted by Ritzer. likes ketchup and a cut-up hotdog with his macaroni and cheese. Prep Peruse The Butcher's Guide to WellRaised Meat by Joshua and Jessica Applestone; view video of master butcher Dario Cecchini at youtube/RxacDYO8RxE. • Inspiration One of Ritzer's cutting-edge idols is Tom Myland at The Meathook in Brooklyn, New York; check out Myland's blog for tips and info at themeathook. com • Gear A few good knives. Ritzer uses Forschner from Victoriaknox, the Swiss Army guys (swissarmy.com). • Cost $55 to $75 per class (choose from lamb, pork, beef and sausagemaking); $175 for Ritzer's six- to 12-person Sunday Dinner with the Butcher events. • Signup 3209 West Broadway, Vancouver (604733-2220; thehonestbutcher.com). Y Member savings and benefits for B.C. travel: bcaa.com/bc CULINARY 101 THESE DAYS it's getting easier to find ethically good meat; many ranchers are even happy to have you drop by and tour the family farm. Here are some of David Ritzer's faves: • Empire Valley Beef Clinton, B.C. 250-459-0024; empirevalleybeef.com • Six Masters' Farm 42980 S. Sumas Road, Chilliwack, B.C. 604-308-8033; sixmastersfarm.com • Sloping Hills Farm 350 Parker Road, Qualicum Beach, B.C. 250-752-0570 And, for more info on eating local and sustainable: getlocalbc.org P ER FECTLY H ONES T ROADTRIPPING TO THE FARMS where food is grown — for a sit-down meal — is just one take on the latest culinary travel trend. The other? Free-range, hands-on, specialty workshops like David Ritzer's. shaking the hands of those who work so hard to provide us with the option of naturally, sustainably raised meat is quite another." Ritzer and apprentice Nick haul one of the lambs from the shop's humungous walk-in fridge and set it on the cutting table. I've got to admit, seeing a whole, skinless animal lying there like that is a little shocking. But then, that's the point if I'm to become a more conscious carnivore. Outside on West Broadway, a big Husky stops to stare hungrily in the front window, lingering long enough for Norman Rock40 W E S T W O R L D p38-41_Cooking.indd 40 >> SUMMER 2012 Clutching my brown-paper-wrapped packages of sausages, chops and shish-kebabsized chunks to go, I still feel good, though. Names I've seen only on cling-wrapped Styrofoam-tray labels now make sense. I've looked into the eye of the lamb and gained a newfound respect for the years of dedication to local, sustainable, on-the-farm animal husbandry behind the meats I'll soon humbly prepare. Happy animals. Happy people. That's the Honest Butcher's motto. And armed with Ritzer's secret recipe for lamb chops (right), along with lemon potatoes, grilled peppers and fresh baklava for dessert from the deli next door, I'm sure to make happy people out of my hungry backyard guests, too. Writer, photographer, filmmaker and Westworld videographer Jeff Topham confesses that he still LAMB CHOPS 6 2 2 2 2 1 4 2 Local, grass-fed lamb loin chops Teaspoons sea salt Teaspoons pepper Sprigs fresh rosemary Sprigs fresh thyme Lemon – zest and juice Tablespoons olive oil Cloves garlic Finely chop rosemary, thyme and garlic and combine in bowl with salt, pepper, lemon zest/juice and olive oil. Massage marinade into and over lamb. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. Remove lamb from fridge and shake off excess marinade. Saute excess on medium-high heat for two minutes; add chops and sear two to three minutes each side. Remove from pan and allow meat to rest five minutes before serving. (Kitsilano) Al Harvey/SlideFarm, (Ritzer) Andrew Topham 4/26/12 11:31:19 AM