Going Places

Winter 2013

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travel smarts Be a Foodie, Not a Tourist: How to fill your belly with authentic fare abroad T hat little taqueria in Playa del Carmen, that perfect trattoria in Rome or that impeccable brasserie in Avignon: a great meal can make a vacation. Here's how to get the most out of every meal, wherever you travel and whatever your budget. 1 Know your specialties. Almost every region has one or two. If you're in Belize, you'll want to seek out salbutes (a kind of fried taco). In Belgium, it has to be the frites (they invented them) with mayonnaise. Restaurants that pride themselves on using the best local ingredients or farm-to-tablestyle menus will give you the real flavour of a destination. While you're chasing down authentic local fare, why not try a cooking class? Local recipes make great souvenirs, and you'll meet like-minded food lovers and travellers. More and more hotels are offering lessons, and small cooking schools are popping up in even the most remote cities. Larger urban centres will often have culinary institutes. Don't be rigid about sticking to the local specialties, though. If you hear from a reliable source that there's a good Ethiopian restaurant in Buenos Aires, why not check it out? The best pizza I ever had came from a little pizzeria in Tokyo. 2 Make trade-offs for your budget. If you've got caviar taste and a peanut butter budget, consider lunch. High-end restaurants often offer lunches that feature the same ingredients as their dinner menu for a fraction of the price. If you have dinner reservations at a five-star restaurant, stick to something cheap and casual during the day – a bowl of Asian noodle soup or a couple of tacos from a street vendor. You'll have more money to put toward 10 G O I N G P L A C E S p10-11_TravelSmarts.indd 10 >> winter 2013 a great bottle of wine with supper. Of course, skipping the wine altogether will go a long way to bringing down your bill. Alternatively, splash out on a big lunch and stick to appetizers or bar snacks at the high-end place. 3 Take online reviews with a grain of salt. Avoiding the tourist traps and finding the best that a city, town or region has to offer is both easier and more confusing than ever. Everyone's an online critic, and a restaurant that's loved by "Hungrybelly27" might be considered "the worst restaurant ever" by "Pennelover." A better bet is to track down the local city magazine, online or in print, before you go, as these often publish lists of best restaurants and are generally more reliable than anonymous reviewers. 4 Find out what the locals are eating. If you see locals queuing up somewhere, it's probably for a reason. Asking a couple of people in the lineup where else they like to eat can often yield better results than the most up-to-date guidebook. Hotel concierges can also be a good source for dining recommendations, but be aware that some have financial arrangements with certain restaurants. Cab drivers, too. Just be sure to ask them where they like to eat, as opposed to which places they recommend. And while you'll likely be avoiding generic, international chain restaurants, the local fast food joint (Nando's in South Africa, In-N-Out Burger in the western U.S.) is often worth checking out, if only once. 5 Visit the local market. This can give travellers as good an insight into a culture as a trip to the museum. Even if you don't have a kitchen at your hotel, there are often inexpensive local specialties being prepared somewhere in the market. At the very least, you can pick up some fresh fruit for a quick snack. You'll also learn what types of produce are grown in the region and what's in season – information that comes in handy when it's time to order. As with all travel, a sense of adventure and willingness to try new things will be your best assets when seeking out authentic food abroad. –Chris Johns Mandy Lau 13-10-16 9:18 AM

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