Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/118161
roadtrip Land of the Anasazi A round trip into magic and mystery where four states meet story and photography by Liz Bryan A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE, Mesa Verde National Park features 600 Anasazi cliff dwellings (top) that attract 750,000-plus visitors each summer. Tours can be booked early mornings at the visitor centre (space is limited), where info on accommodation — some right on the mesa — and campsites is also available. visitmesaverde. com; (above) Canyon de Chelly's Spider Rock. 20 W E S T W O R L D p20-21_Roadtrip.indd 20 >> THERE IS A HAUNTING MAGIC IN THE DESERT OF THE steaks and excellent local cervezas (the Spanish American southwest where the four corners of were here, too). Good sleeps: Kelly Place B&B – in Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado meet, the countryside (kellyplace.com). a magic only partly explained by the techniFrom Cortez, journey west along County colour brilliance of the terrain and Road G through McElmo Canyon. its huge sweep of turquoise sky. The 40-km drive to Hovenweep JAUNT Cortez to Cortez For this is still very much the land of DURATION 5 days (minimum) National Monument leads along the Anasazi, whose ruined villages, the rim of Canyon of the Ancients PRIME TIME Late summer through fall mysteriously abandoned, can still National Monument; stop for views TUNES Leading Native be explored on mesas and in canof striking Castle Rock and an icy American flautist R. Carlos yons scattered across this vast, undrink at the old Ismay Trading Post. Nakai's haunting bestseller, forgettable landscape. Crossing into Utah, follow the signs Canyon; or Nakai's latest release, Dancing The small town of Cortez, Colonorth for Hovenweep's two- to threeinto Silence. rado, is the culturally rich start – and hour canyon walk among Anasazi end – point of this Four Corners village ruins, dating from 1200 AD. circle tour focused mainly within Navajo coun- The site also features a tent and RV campsite try. For an introduction to the area's strong and excellent visitor centre (970-562-4282). native presence, both ancient and modern, tour From Hovenweep, drive about 32 km west the nearby Anasazi Heritage Center (970-882- past historic Hatch Trading Post to Hwy. 191. 5600), followed by Navajo dancing, flute play- Turn left (south) here and drive 16 km to Bluff, ing and sand-painting exhibitions at the Cortez an intriguing small town set amid dramatic sandCultural Center (970-565-1151); the Notah stone towers beside the San Juan River. Good eats: Dineh Trading Co. & Museum sells fine Navajo Twin Rocks Cafe, a favourite of local Navajos silver and turquoise jewellery, hand-woven rugs (the adjacent trading post, with wooden 'Cigar and pottery (970-565-9607). Good eats: Main Store Indians' by its shady porch entrance, sells Street Brewery (970-564-9112), for generous a variety of native arts and crafts). Good sleeps: FA L L 2 0 1 1 8/17/11 12:15:37 PM