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Kainet/Flickr, Kirsten Rodenhizer, Stocksy FALL 2017 BCA A .COM 13 TRAVEL 4 Cross Victoria Harbour on the Star Ferry This passenger ferry service, founded in 1888, makes hourly trips between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, offering a gorgeous view of the glass jungle from the water. Hang around the harbour until 8 p.m. to be dazzled by A Symphony of Lights: around 40 waterfront buildings lighting up nightly with LEDs and green lasers. DIG DEEPER: TAKE A WALK IN POHO This tranquil hillside neighbourhood, just west of the city centre, is one of Hong Kong's hippest and most recently gentrified, packed with design shops, buzzed-about restaurants, galleries and cafés. Graffiti murals splash alleys and side streets, thanks to a street-art project sponsored by local non-profit HK Walls. Buildings along Victoria Harbour glow with LEDs and lasers nightly for A Symphony of Lights. 3 Shop the Sham Shui Po markets This grid of Kowloon streets is located in one of the city's working- class neighbourhoods, where tenement buildings studded with air conditioners loom large over rows of kiosks and shops. It's also a great place to get a feel for the real Hong Kong. The streets are divided by theme: among others, look for electronics on Apliu Street, toys and seasonal decorations on Fuk Wing Street and craft supplies such as ribbons and beads on Yu Chau. Consider taking a guided tasting tour of the "wet market," or food market, including nearby noodle shops, bakeries, tofu stalls and cafés (hongkongfoodietours.com). You'll learn how much milk goes into traditional milk tea (a lot) and where pineapple buns get their name (the shape, not the flavour).

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