BCAA

14 bca a .com winter 2015 (bottom, left and inset) Duncan de Young (top) Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism, barrett & macKay Photography destinations St. John's those taps work, while the TV show's version of the pub is an impeccably recreated set on a sound stage.) I order a pint of the local draft, Quidi Vidi 1892, a pale and refreshing ale that arrives with a head as white and frothy as a snowdrift. "What's good?" I ask the bartender. "It's all good," he replies. "But mostly we're famous for our fish and chips." I order. "You want stuffing and gravy?" he asks. "I don't know," I reply, perplexed by the offer of these unusual accoutrements to a familiar dish. "Do I?" "You do," he says confidently. A few minutes later it arrives, a heaping plate of brown on beige on gold, but with a delicious aroma that belies the dish's monochromatic look. Crisp batter gives way to tender, moist fish and crunchy fries are offset by soft bread stuffing. The salty, sharp gravy is a welcome foil to the creamy tang of the tartar sauce. It is both very tasty and very filling. Adelaide oyster house It will take a walk up to the top of local landmark Signal Hill to get me ready for dinner. From the summit, clouds and ships blow in at almost the same speed, racing across the rippled Atlantic into the welcoming embrace of St. John's Harbour. Looking down onto the city, I can just about make out where I'll be having dinner. Adelaide Oyster House is the domain of Steven Vardy, a lavishly tattooed former yogi and one of Canada's best chefs. He's not here tonight, the dreadlocked server informs me, as there's a storm coming and the surfing's really good. I'm in excellent hands, though. To the sounds of old-school hip hop his team turns out dishes as cool and urban as the exposed lightbulbs that illuminate the concrete-lined space. Fish tacos come with a smoky adobo sauce, Japanese karaage fried chicken gets a dip in a gochujang-spiced aioli and kale salad gets a makeover from smoked albacore, sprouted legumes and a bold Caesar-style dressing. the Merchant tavern The next day, I round out my foodie tour with lunch at The Merchant Tavern, the new restaurant from the team behind Raymonds. The Merchant Tavern, like its older sibling, resides in a heritage building on Water Street and is dedicated to working with the best local ingredients. Where Raymonds is formal and contemporary, Merchant is relaxed and classical. "We noticed that people really loved coming and just sitting at the bar at Raymonds," sommelier Jeremy Bonia says. "We thought there was an appetite for something more laid-back that people could visit a couple of times a week rather than for a special occasion." If the crowd is anything to go by, they're right. It's inspiring to see traditional Newfoundland dishes like fried cod tongues and steamed Blueshell mussels alongside ricotta cavatelli with braised lamb. The food and ingredients of Newfoundland, when prepared with this level of care and dedication, rank among the best on earth. The weather's turned wintery again, but that just means I'll linger a little longer. The oysters are at their peak this time of year. It seems that they like the cold weather just as much as the locals, and visiting diners, do. n For more information and where to go, visit Destination St. John's online (destinationstjohns.com) and check out Newfoundland and Labrador tourism (newfoundlandlabrador.com). Please plan a safe ride if you choose to drink alcohol on your travels.

• Cover