Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/598857
Mallard Cottage There's a near-blizzard raging outside and there's no better place to ride it out than Mallard Cottage. This 300-year-old fisherman's cottage, in the charming St. John's neighbourhood of Quidi Vidi Village, also happens to be one of the country's finest restaurants. Mallard's inherent coziness – a roaring fire in the old brick hearth, the contented buzz of well-fed regulars and a huge table full of fresh-baked pies and cakes – is made even more comfortable in contrast with the weather. I accept the offer of a coffee refill and make another trip to the pastry table for some cinnamon raisin coffee cake. "That one's my favourite," says the burly, bearded guy next to me. "I've been trying to make it at home but I can't quite get it right." With his cable-knit sweater and Montreal Canadiens toque he doesn't match my image of a dedicated home baker. "Yeah, I got into it about five years ago," he says. "I probably put on another 20 pounds because of it, though!" raymonds It seems like all of Newfoundland has gotten into food in a big way. Five years ago, chef Jeremy Charles and sommelier Jeremy Bonia opened Raymonds, one of the most ambitious and elegant restaurants this country has ever produced. A meal there might include fresh-made cavatelli pasta with a ragù made of moose that chef Charles hunted himself (Newfoundland is one of a few provinces where restaurants can serve wild game), paired with something a winemaker delivered to the restaurant. The flavours are robust and honest; the service is as friendly and relaxed as a friend's house. rocket Bakery & Fresh Food The next day dawns bright and clear: the blizzard has passed, leaving a still, blue day and quiet streets under a fresh coat of snow. It's the perfect morning for a neighbourhood café where steam from the espresso machine fogs the windows and the white wooden room smells of coffee and fresh pastries. There's a full menu – turkey and corn chowder, Arctic char and herbed cream cheese quiche, plus soft ginger cookies and hot chocolate for the kiddies – but I'm pacing myself for one of the city's most iconic lunches. the Duke of Duckworth Even before The Duke of Duckworth was a star, playing a prominent role in the TV show Republic of Doyle, it was a beloved local institution. Fans of that show will immediately recognize the merlot-coloured carpet, the ceiling strung with miniature flags of the world, the brightly lit bar lined with vintage beer trays and the long line of beer taps. (The only difference is that here, 12 bca a .com winter 2015 (top) Farah Khan, House9 Design (bottom and opposite) canadian Tourism commission (above) Duncan de Young Mallard Cottage is a 300-year-old building in Quidi Vidi Village, a vintage fishing community; (inset) a rosemary- infused winter cocktail; (below) seafood chowder to warm the soul; (opposite) St. John's Harbour. TIP! BCAA Members save 10% on Travel Insurance. bcaa.com/travel destinations St. John's