Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/500391
lea currie s u m m e r 2 0 1 5 | g o i n g p l a c e s 29 tallest building. Created in 2005 on a bland brown apartment complex, the mural forms a majestic presence on the ompson skyline – and has its own claim to fame as the world's largest lighted mural. Driving down Mystery Lake Road, I'm transfixed as the eyes of the dignified wolf seem to follow me. Its gaze is both intense and melancholy, sending chills down my spine on this hot summer day. It was this piece of mesmeric art that jump-started the push to spotlight ompson as the wolf capital of the world. e mural is an exact replica of a painting by esteemed Canadian wildlife artist and con- servationist Robert Bateman, reproduced in spray paint by Winnipeg artist Charlie John- son. It took Johnson six weeks to ensure every inch of the reproduction was a perfect match to Bateman's original 45-centimetre painting. Up close, I marvel at the fine graduations of the wolf 's fur. I can even see details of the tex- tured paper Bateman used for the original. "That [mural] changed everything," says Volker Beckmann, volunteer project director for Spirit Way and a passionate advocate for wolves. From there, "the floodgates opened," he explains. Media, wolf organizations, uni- versities and researchers quickly took interest. "I had no idea that there was a worldwide infatuation and a worldwide controversy," says Beckmann, referring to the hunting of and continued hostility towards wolves in some countries, including the United States, Mexico and Sweden. Soon after, wolf sculptures, similar to CancerCare Manitoba's Bears on Broadway, were introduced. "We stole the idea," admits Beckmann. There are now 53 sculptures in the pack , most of them placed around T hompson. T hree were put on show in Churchill and 11 in Winnipeg. Geocaching enthusiasts can complete the province-wide wolf hunt and be certified a "master wolf tracker," an opportunity that my husband, Mark, jumps on when Beckmann presents the passport to fill in. Local artists have painted each of the wolf sculptures in a unique way, with themes rang- ing from the mining industry to the ancient stone landmarks known as inuksuit. I'm capti- vated by one called Kakenathit Mahikon, by John Henry, who also painted the Manitoba Hydro mural on Portage Avenue in Winnipeg. This sculpture depicts the rich green boreal forest that serves as the wolf 's backdrop. It seems fitting to portray this reclusive creature in its natural setting. F or the best views of the mural and sculp- tures, Beckmann takes us on the Spirit Way Trail (www.thompsonspiritway.ca), one of Travel Manitoba's Star Attractions. It's a leisurely two- to three-hour walking tour (or cycling route) to various points of interest in Thompson. The tour begins at the Heritage North Museum, a quaint building that reminds me not to judge a book by its cover. Walking up to the museum, I'm unimpressed with its size. Sure it's cute, but I wonder how this tiny log cabin could possibly have earned its own Star Attraction designation. I'm pleasantly sur- prised once I step inside; the museum and its staff have done an outstanding job of highlight- ing the north, including its wildlife, history and art. More first-rate sites and stories await along the Spirit Way Trail to the Burntwood River, among them a restored floatplane and a tribute to ompson's world-class firefighters. I'm frankly surprised to find that the prov- ince's third largest city has such an outstanding history. It makes me proud to be a Manitoban. I suddenly feel as if I've found a northern gem in this often ignored mining community. With a strong history filled with rich aborig- inal culture, a strong mining industry and an abundance of natural beauty, I'm curious about why wolves were chosen as the focus of the city. Unlike Churchill's polar bears and beluga whales, these reclusive creatures cannot easily be seen by tourists. When I ask Beckmann, he is (clockwise from top) View from the Sasagui Rapids Lodge's cabin on Setting Lake; some of the 39 wolf sculptures in town; Kakenathit Mahikon by John Henry; wolf mural as seen from Spirit Way Trail.