Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/458251
store overstaffed with desultory clerks, visited a crowded outdoor market for a handmade leather purse monogrammed on the spot and lined up at a CADECA (Casa de Cambio) for the privilege of chang- ing Canadian dollars into Cuban government-authorized CUCs (con- verted pesos). It was Saturday, so there were more children and families out on the town. On an undistinguished side street a children's theatre performance was underway, the kids and grandparents sharing wrought-iron benches with parents standing behind, all captivated by the colourfully clad performers. A detour through Parque Central revealed the "baseball corner," where fans gather to discuss Cuba's national game. e conversations were heated because a week earlier the Netherlands had defeated Cuba 6-2 in the second round of the 2013 World Baseball Classic, a fiercely competitive inter- national event. A return to our favourite square, the Plaza de Armas with its tree-filled centre ringed with outdoor second-hand book stalls and colonial buildings, brought us to the stately Hotel Santa Isabel and a couple of refreshing Cristals. Old Havana is seductive. Many of the marvellous baroque, neo-classical, art deco a n d a r t n o uve a u b u i l d i n g s h ave b e e n restored to former glories – at least on the façade. e secondary streets, while in disre- pair, are almost always clean. There is no advertising to be seen, and scant street sig- nage. There are few cars and no threat of crime. It is tempting as a tourist to view things romantically since many of the irritating and stressful aspects of modern Canadian life are missing here. Old Havana, and it is very old indeed, feels fresh and pure. But this is not a shabby-chic movie set, and we suspect the reality for Cubans is more complex and challenging. B ack on board and sailing from María la Gorda to Isla de la Juventud, the sec- ond-largest island in Cuba, I am reminded of what attracted us to this ship: its size and ability to slip into tiny ports and anchorages unreachable by the floating resorts. This is cruising on a small scale, still a niche industry but with the explo- sion of interest in small-ship river cruising in par ticular, a growing travel trend. I am reminded too of the benefits of a crew and passenger "community" on a small vessel: the chance to visit Captain Georgios for a location update or to share the view from the bridge; the familiar daily greeting "Welcome to para- dise!" from hotel manager Stavros, who istock