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24 HOURS 12 G O I N G P L A C E S | S P R I N G 2 0 1 5 (clockwise from left) istock, department of tourism rome/martina cristofani, galleria lorcan o'neill roma DURING ITS MORE THAN 2,500-year history, the Eternal City has been many things – home to emperors and artists, birthplace of the Renaissance, seat of the Cath- olic Church and capital of the world. With a legendary past that's as vast, rich and textured as the many monuments and ruins spread across its breadth, contemporary Rome hustles and bustles, with surging sidewalks and honking horns. It's a joy to explore – if you decide to embrace the chaos. START YOUR ADVENTURE in the heart of the city – at the iconic Colosseum. Still the world's largest amphitheatre, this was centre stage for the Roman Empire, once seating 80,000 spectators. Dodge the cheesy faux gladiators out front – looking to mug for a photo, tip required – and head inside to navi- gate the subterranean labyrinth that runs under a newly rebuilt floor. Then walk through the ruins out- side: the Forum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and Pantheon. TAKE TIME TO explore the extensive web of hidden lanes and small piazzas that spread across this part of town, offering respite from the crowds as well as excellent and unpretentious spots to grab a pizza or plate of spaghetti (the meatballs and other Italian classics at Fortunato al Pantheon, for example, are time- honoured favourites). ALL ROADS MAY lead to Rome, but traffic in town – coupled with the generally, er, energetic approach Italians take to driving – can make the streets a nightmare. Instead, opt for the city's (mostly) fast and (sometimes) efficient subway, which can spirit you to great little neighbourhoods such as Trastevere. Still off the tourist radar, this charm- ing quarter of cobblestone streets is home to fledgling and established artists, with wonderful galleries such as the Galleria Lorcan O'Neill Roma, tucked away on a backstreet. Trastevere is also home to the Orto Botanico (botanical garden), an ideal place to lose the crowds and enjoy a shady stroll. Once you've worked up an appetite, take a seat at Roma Sparita, whose tables spill out onto the beautiful Piazza di Santa Cecilia, and which serves up simple, inex- pensive and delicious dishes such as cacio e pepe – pasta with pepper and pecorino cheese. WHEN YOU'RE READY again to face the masses, head to the Vatican. Passing by the colourful Swiss Guard and through the gates, you're actually entering another country. Just 44 hectares in size, it's the last remnant of the previ- ously powerful Papal States that dominated much of central Italy for more than 1,000 years. Visit the Sistine Chapel, whose exquisite ceiling is perhaps Michelangelo's greatest masterpiece (although the Pietà, also at the Vatican, has a pretty strong claim). Finish your visit with a walk through grand St. Peter's Square, past the Apostolic Palace – home of the Bishop of Rome, also known as the Pope – and into St. Peter's Basilica; climb the several hundred steps to its soaring dome, the world's tallest, for an unparalleled view of the country. Then take a well-earned rest at a boutique hotel such as the Hotel Santa Maria back in Trastevere. A lovely property around a quiet, leafy courtyard, it's the perfect place to relax with a bottle of Chianti or Barolo before bedding down for the night. GP Rome Strolling in the footsteps of Spartacus and Michelangelo by Tim Johnson When in Rome . . . visit Florence, Venice, Paris and London too. Trafalgar's London to Rome Highlights tour starts at $1,975. Book with CAA Travel today. Simple but tasty cacio e pepe. The iconic Colosseum. The Galleria Lorcan O'Neill Roma.