Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/406441
(opposite) jen judge, (this page) barbados tourism W I N T E R 2 0 1 4 | g o i n g p l a c e s 31 n a sweltering morning in Barbados, marcus samuelsson, an ethiopian-born, swedish-raised celebrity chef from new York, is whipping up an african rendition of the classic French steak tartare. a crowd of onlookers in the tented beachside demonstration kitchen at the Hilton Barbados resort in Bridgetown dab their brows and crane to see as samuelsson cubes U.s.-bred beef filets, stir-fries roasted peppers and thyme in indian ghee and sears the beef in the aromatic fat. next, he sautées shrimp and pickled veggies and tosses them in an endive and walnut salad. en he browns pork tenderloins. e sharp aromas make my stomach grumble in anticipation, but this isn't exactly the Caribbean feast i envisioned when i signed up for the Barbados Food & wine and rum Festival. ough i've come to this far-flung spot – the easternmost island nation in the Caribbean, in the middle of the windward islands – expecting island fare, samuelsson's tasting menu sounds more like a United nations potluck. and now the chef is talking about how to infuse bourbon, that classic american tipple, with figs or peanuts. where is the jerk chicken, the plantain, the callaloo, the conch chowder? after samuelsson is finished cooking, i ease into the melée of eager foodies surging toward the coun- ter and eventually get close enough to talk to him. How does his demonstration reflect the local food culture, i wonder. and why is the festival held in Bar- bados? He flashes me a toothy smile and gives me a slick answer about the island's multicultural heri- tage, citing influences from england, spain, Portu- gal, africa, india and even China. "it's an exciting time because every world cuisine has its voice and its place at the table – even this little island," samuelsson says before a heavyset woman from Florida corners him for an autograph. as he's swallowed up by the scrum of hungry admirers, he motions around at the nearby stand of palms and the azure water sifting flaxen sand behind him. "Besides, who doesn't want to come to Barbados?" Fair enough, and it's true that samuelsson's diverse background and ability to meld ideas from around the globe into his cooking make him the ideal festival ambassador. But i also find the answer unsatisfying. i travel to discover the idiosyncrasies of a place, the distinctive flavours and spices that set it apart from everywhere else. e four-day festival's schedule is enough to satiate any foodie – with cook- O (opposite) Shrimp coconut curry at The Cove restaurant in St. Joseph parish, Barbados; (top) chef Marcus Samuelsson prepares African-style steak tartare for a rapt crowd at the Hilton Barbados during the Barbados Food & Wine and Rum Festival; (below) beach time in St. Peter.