Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/125316
the Hudson Bay coastline, where the elements are fierce, pure luxury reigns indoors at Seal River Heritage Lodge. Warm wood wraps from the vaulted ceilings to the baseboards. Dark leather plush couches beckon, and the orange glow from the woodstove mesmerizes. Some 60 km away, the small town of Churchill (less than 1,000 residents) boasts a big reputation as the Polar Bear Capital of the World. And for good reason. More than 1,000 of the world's 25,000 polar bears hang around this stretch. They move in and out of town with regularity, and it's quite a sight to see. But up here at the mouth of the Seal River, there's a good chance we'll get to see them in a naturally stunning habitat. Up close. Really close. Going for a walk on the tundra with the very real possibility of an encounter with the world's largest land carnivore seems, well, terrifying. I fall into line with the other guests from the lodge. Hopefully, they won't notice my increased heart rate or my eyes as wide as saucers (I've been close to polar bears before, yet only from the relative safety of a really big vehicle with a viewing platform). Adult males can weigh up to 700 kilograms, or 1,500 pounds. When you see one in real life, you can't help but think, wow, they're really big. Sure enough, we spot a bear. And he's coming closer. An equal mix of terror and exhilaration races through my body. Exhilaration wins by a hair and I stand stock-still. Our guide is in charge of our protection. While I'm imagining a standoff involving firearms, it's much more subtle. Instead, the guide clinks a couple of rocks together. It's enough to get the bear moving in the opposite direction. The next step would have been to actually toss one of the rocks. After that, it's a warning shot over the bear (the guides carry firearms). Neither is necessary today. The bear and the visitors are kept at least 50 metres away from one another. There is a group exhale, and the resultant smiles are as wide as Hudson Bay. The next day, we move from land to the water. We're going swimming with beluga whales. I'll burn more calories squeezing into that dry suit than I will actually swimming, but it's essential if I want to dip into the always-chilly bay. I pull down my facemask, pop in my snorkel and hop in. Even with the suit, it takes just one second for the cold to creep in. But the underwater scenery quickly grabs my attention. It comes in the form of a creamy white beluga, suspended 24 G O I N G P L A C E S p20-25_MadeinMan.indd 24 >> summer 2013 13-04-12 1:06 PM