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weekender Christmas at the End of the Road November 26, 2011 ❖❖❖ 17th Annual Nordic Ski Camp December 15 to 18, 2011 ❖❖❖ Methow Valley Winter Festival February 18 to 26, 2012 METHOW VALLEY the getaway Winter treats the Methow Valley well. This is the dry side of Washington, the foothills of the Cascades, base elevation about 450 metres – and after the aspens drop their late-autumn yellows, deep snows turn the valley's rolling hills into the proverbial winter wonderland. By November, Methow's stands of fir and alder are criss-crossed with 200 km of Nordic ski trails and snowshoe routes weaving into and out of the funky tourist town of Winthrop. Snow trails are crossed in turn by the tracks of wandering mule deer, part of the largest migratory herd in the state. Winthrop has affected a Wild West look in recent years, complete with wood-plank sidewalks and corrugated-tin awnings that look particularly charming covered in snow. Behind the campy facades, the town is progressive and intriguing, the population an eclectic mix of artists, bookworms, organic farmers and shotgun-rack liberals, as well as ex-Olympic skiers and would-be Olympians such as local Nordic-ski wunderkind Sadie Bjornsen. the hideaway Sun Mountain Lodge, at about 900 metres elevation, enjoys a feudal lord's view of the entire valley. Tucked into the hills just 16 km 10 W E S T W O R L D p10-11_Weeknder.indd 10 >> WINTER 2011 outside Winthrop, the resort was built in 1968, the year that the Methow Valley scored the standing record for Washington's coldest temperature: -48°F (-44°C). Therefore, the aesthetic is understandably cozy – giant stone fireplaces and hot tubs – but also rough-hewn: Douglas-fir beams and Idaho quartz floors. Management has also been committed to "local" since before it was fashionable. More than 20 valley-based artisans refurbished the lodge with handmade armoires, duvet covers, lamps and carved cherry headboards in 2002, and the 450label wine cellar features off-the-radar Washington varietals. Culinary-wise, everything from bacon and eggs to chanterelles and cheese is sourced nearby. In winter, the lodge is an idyllic home base for backcountry adventuring. Its outdoor shop offers cross-country and downhill ski rentals (Loup Loup Ski Bowl is a half-hour away), plus snowshoes, skates and other gear, trail maps, lessons and guided tours. Romantics can skate under the stars at frozen-solid Patterson Lake or take a draft-horse sleigh ride complete with thick quilt and hot cocoa. From $170 for lodge stays (with TV-free room) or newer-vintage cabins at Patterson Lake. 1-800-572-0493; sunmountainlodge.com the inside track Gooey goodness: Winthrop's Rocking Horse Bakery cinnamon rolls (rockinghorsebakery.com). The inside scoop: Chocolate-covered Twinkies and homemade ice cream (licorice or lemon custard recommended) at Sheri's Sweet Shoppe in Winthrop (sherissweetshoppe.com). Dramatic paws: Guided wildlife tracking by ski or snowshoe (events@mvsta.com). Bibliomania: Trail's End, downtown, for handpicked titles. (trailsend bookstore.com). The drool-est cut of all: Arrowleaf Bistro's filet mignon with blue-cheese butter and handcut fries. Not available? Try something else — it's all good (arrowleafbistro.com). Eat my wax: February's Nordic ski "tour," with tourists and locals alike tackling 20-, 30-, 50- or 80-km loops (kids, 5- to 10-km), capped by evening potluck (mvnordic.com/touromet.html). —Rob Murphy (top) Don Portman/MVSTA, (middle) Sun Mountain Lodge, (inset) Jovan Charlton/Sun Mountain Lodge 10/25/11 11:43:15 AM

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