BCAA

roadtrip Gone Sideways . . . yet still on track in Santa Barbara wine country story and photography by Liz Bryan KNOWN AS THE AMERICAN RIVIERA, CALIFORNIA'S QUEEN OF THE MISSIONS Opened in 1786 on traditional Chumash Indian land, the shell-pink Santa Barbara Mission (above) is the the tenth of 21 missions established by the Spanish Franciscan friars — and Santa Barbara's key cultural and historical landmark. Don't miss: the Queen of the Missions' traditional Christmas Eve mass, for its renowned choral music. 18 W E S T W O R L D p18-19_Roadtrip.indd 18 >> elegantly Moorish concoction with a sunken Spanish colonial city of Santa Barbara boasts a garden and astounding views from its clock Mediterranean climate tempered by gentle tower; the 1827 Casa de la Guerra and Presidio; breezes (due to its location on one of the few a stroll through old El Paséo, originally a series of interconnected shopping south-facing stretches of the U.S. arcades and courtyards and still Pacific coast) and balmy winters JAUNT One-day circuit, from Santa Barbara well worth exploring, though the (courtesy of the sheltering Santa DURATION 1 day shops have migrated to Paséo Ynez Mountains). The influence of (with overnight option) Nuevo (across State Street). Farther the Spanish here is equally captiPRIME TIME Winter north on State: the Arlington Thevating: from the city's 1786 Santa TUNES Celebrate the endless Barbara Mission to its presidio (a summer with Santa Barbara's atre's over-the-top Spanish fantasy military fort toured by Captain Van- best-known musical son David décor; and, north again, the fine couver in 1793), Santa Barbara is a Crosby (Crosby, Stills, Nash & old "Queen of the Missions," the Young, The Byrds) then hit sun-splashed tapestry of terra cotta the beach with classics from Santa Barbara Mission. Bonus: two the Beach Boys, Dick Dale jaunty electric trolleys make walkroofs, domes and cupolas, whiteand Jan and Dean abouts easy. One runs up State washed adobe walls and handStreet, from Stearns Wharf to the painted tiles and mosaics, enhanced by tall palm, fig and citrus trees and vivid tropi- mission, another along the waterfront (fares cal flowers. Newly constructed shopping malls, just 25 cents, transfers free). Good eats: La Plaza public buildings and homes display the same Azul Café, for Mexican – ask for a table on the Spanish and Moorish heritage. Then there is the bougainvillea-smothered patio (805-966-2860); waterfront: eight glorious kilometres of shallow, Sojourner Café & Restaurant (vegetarian), curving beachfront edged by lawns and palm directly opposite the Presidio (805-965-7922); trees, promenades and historic Stearns Wharf, Pierre LaFond Wine Bistro, on State Street, for the longest wooden pier in the U.S. people-watching and California wines and cuiThe highlights: a tour of the courthouse, an sine, including decadent desserts (805-962-1455); WINTER 2011 11/1/11 2:11:22 PM

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