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roadtrip Dockside Dreamers Two little islands with two big histories story and photography by Liz Bryan THE BIG HOUSE In summer, ancient rituals and legends are re-enacted at the Big House in 'Yalis by the T'sasala Dance Group (top). Nearby, the U'Mista Cultural Centre, a replica of 'Yalis's 1873 Big House, features a thunderbird and whale design and a massive, impressive collection of recently repatriated potlatch artifacts (250-974-5403; info@umista. ca). (above) Sointula harbour. 16 W E S T W O R L D p16-17_Roadtrip.indd 16 >> SMALL ISLANDS EVERYWHERE SUGGEST SANCTUARY the Upper Crust Bakery and the Whale's Rub Pub – an escape from the humdrum of everyday life, at the Malcolm Island Inn. Superficially, however, if only for a weekend. And just off the northeast little remains of the island's socialist Utopia. The tip of Vancouver Island, the two-island idyll of Finns, who arrived in 1901, cleared land for farms Malcolm and Cormorant offers a particularly and built a brickyard, foundry and sawmill. But despite hard work, the community tranquil, culturally rich option. The foundered. First, its community hall larger of the two, Malcolm, was setJAUNT Malcolm and burned, killing 11 settlers. Then one tled by Finnish idealists seeking to Cormorant Islands DURATION 2 to 3 days, of the leaders left for the mainland, establish a Canadian Utopia called minimum taking many members with him. Sointula (Place of Harmony). CorPRIME TIME April through The venture declared bankruptcy in morant Island – barely five km from September stem to stern – has been deeply TUNES Felix Mendelssohn's 1905, and only a few stalwarts opted to stay behind. But Finnish names stamped with the 'Namgis First "The Hebrides" evokes the mystery and drama of are still prominent in the local phone Nations' identity and traditions. far-flung islands book and the history of the era lives And, both offer a bonus: excellent on in the local museum (if it's closed, beachfront wildlife viewing of seals, sea lions, river otters and eagles. Note: Ferries phone one of the volunteers listed on the door; someone will come.) depart from Port McNeill harbour. A drive east along Kaleva Road leads to the pioneer cemetery and parallels the pebble beach Leg 1: Malcolm Island Malcolm's 24-km length encompasses several for good views back across the strait to Vancouintriguing, short drives. The village of Sointula is ver Island. Watch for shorebirds, including oysfocused around B.C.'s oldest co-op (est. 1909), tercatchers, black-necked stilts, grebes and with a smattering of small businesses along the mergansers. Enthusiastic birders can join in the main street. Of note: the Sointula Art Gallery and island's Spring Bird Count, held the April 20 Bistro (great food, phenomenal art photography), weekend (akoch@ketacable.net). SPRING 2012 1/26/12 2:48:07 PM

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