Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/112497
(map) DT Graphix p18-19_Roadtrip.indd 19 fields of cranberries and a cranberry museum to Sandridge Road. Then turn north to the oyster port of Nahcotta, marked by huge piles of glistening shells, and stop for coffee at Bailey���s Bakery and Cafe. Out on the wharf is the bay���s last Oyster Station House, now an interpretive centre (not open in winter), overlooking the oyster beds and fish boats in port. A short distance north, turn right along a side road to Oysterville ��� founded in the 1850s and the local centre of a national oyster industry. (Though in the 1880s, overharvesting and an extra-cold winter almost wiped out the shellfish and the town declined, particularly when it lost its status as the state���s county seat.) Now a National Historic District, Oysterville has the sedate air of an English village ��� all white-picket fences and leafy lanes, with a pretty little church (always open), pioneer schoolhouse in winter (at least on weekends), when the tenor is far less hectic than in summer. Don���t miss: Marsh���s Free Museum of funky seaside souvenirs, plus nickel peep shows, a pickled vampire bat, two-headed calf and mummified alligator-man (open daily, year-round; 360-642-2188). The enormous beach is easily accessible on foot across hard-packed sand, by the elevated boardwalk or via the paved Discovery Trail through the dunes from Long Beach to Ilwaco. (Dress warmly; waves are high, the beach very windy and, in winter, winds are cold.) As well, horse rides are available through Skipper���s Equestrian Centre (360642-3676), and much of the beach is open to automobiles (four-wheel drive recommended). Or fly a kite, as many do after viewing 1,800 kites from 28 countries at the World Kite Museum (open weekends in winLEADBETTER POINT Oysterville Nahcotta Ocean Park Klipsan Beach 101 Long Beach, Willapa Bay Washington Pacific Way Sandridge Road Long Beach Seaview Ilwaco Cape Head 4 103 CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT PA C I F I C OCEAN Bay, where St. Mary���s church stands near where First Nations once seined salmon and Lewis and Clark established their westernmost Station Camp. Beyond, the highway slips through a short tunnel to 1898 Fort Columbia, one of three forts that once guarded the river mouth. Fort Columbia State Park features an exhibit of barracks, officers��� quarters and gun batteries (the latter from an old fort in Newfoundland); open April to September (wa.gov/fortcolumbia). West of the fort, the village of Chinook thrived in the 1880s by setting fish traps for salmon ��� huge nets staked between pilings; positioned in V-formations, these can still be seen. The old river town has also retained its fishing-port ambiance, with restored fisher houses and a big old-fashioned general store. At the far end of Baker Bay is the lively Port of Ilwaco, its dock fronted by shops, art studios and good restaurants, including the Pelicano (360-642-4034) and Tuscany Cafe (360-642-4899). Jessie���s Ilwaco Fish Company packing plant (painted scarlet) dominates the west side, and its Seafood Market (painted green) is renowned for smoked salmon. The Columbia Heritage Maritime Museum is also well worth a visit. The highway north then curves off Cape Disappointment directly into Seaview, where the Long Beach Peninsula and its fabulous stretch of sand begins (visitor info at funbeach.com). A small beach resort established in 1881, Seaview was once known for its palatial summer homes and grand hotels. Luckily, one of these has survived: the gorgeously Victorian Shelburne Hotel is the oldest continuously operated lodging in Washington (since 1898) and now a wonderful B&B, complete with third-floor ghost, a restaurant known for its seafood fusion cuisine and a snug little pub (360-642-2442 shelburneinn.com). More good eats: The Depot, housed in a restored station of the former ���Clamshell��� Railway, which once ran from Ilwaco to Oysterville (360-642-7880). Good camping: Several RV parks are located on the peninsula, but Driftwood is large and central (driftwoodrvpark.com); Cape Disappointment State Park also has camping and RV sites (360-642-3078). Seaview is the southern end of the highway on the coastal side of the Long Beach Peninsula. Beyond, the village of Long Beach is a fun-loving seaside resort, its main street lined with kitschy gift shops, galleries, caf��s, beach paraphernalia, sweet shops (saltwater taffy), bakeries, bike and moped rental outfits ��� most of which remain open Naselle 401 Chinook Co lu m Grays River Rosburg Pillar Rock Megler ASTORIA Skamokawa 4 b ia River Fort Clatsop NORTH TO SEATTLE AND VANCOUVER Covered Bridge Cathlamet 5 30 Longview 30 SOUTH TO PORTLAND 101 ter, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 360-642-4020; world kitemuseum.com). Several kite shops are also found in town, including Wind World Kites (360-642-KITE). At the southern end of the peninsula, Cape Disappointment State Park is also worth exploring for its gun batteries from Fort Canby and two lighthouses: the Northwest���s oldest (known as Cape D, built in 1856) and North Head (built in 1898). Both historic sites offer extensive views of the river mouth and ocean as well as memorable sunsets, plus the headland���s spectacular Lewis and Clark Interpretive Centre opens daily (360-642-3029). North Head also offers great storm watching, plus migrating grey whales late December to end of February. Driving north from Long Beach, choose between the seaside and bayside routes. To access the quieter option along Willapa Bay, take Pioneer Road east from Long Beach past KELSO 433 and Victorian homes tucked in the shade of giant cypress trees. The general store/gift shop houses Washington���s oldest post office. Must-see: With one of four oysters eaten in the U.S. estimated to come from Willapa Bay, don���t miss the chance to explore one of Oysterville���s original oyster buildings, now home to Oysterville Sea Farms (see page 18). From town, the road north leads to the tip of the peninsula at Leadbetter Point State Park, with hiking trails bayside and oceanside. Birdwatching here in winter is excellent, so bring rubber boots and watch for rare trumpeter swans (Willapa National Wildlife Refuge; willapabay.org). Or return seaside to Long Beach through Surfside, Ocean Park (with its huge 1885 country store) and Klipsan Beach. Good eats: Jimella and Nanci���s Market Cafe in Klipsan (360-665-4847). Y Member savings and bene���ts for B.C. winter travel: bcaa.com/roadtrips WESTWORLD >> W I N T E R 2 0 1 2 19 12-10-26 7:19 AM