Issue link: http://digital.canadawide.com/i/112497
the street: Fernie���s 2nd Avenue An artisan uprising in mountainous ���atbread country building ��� stands out with mouthwatering tapas; buttersoft scallops recommended (picnicrestaurant.ca). G iant Kootenay coalfields and the 1898 arrival of the Canadian Pacific Railway sparked pioneer-era Fernie, but two devastating early fires shaped its look today. Switching to brick after 1908, the rebuilt miner���s settlement radiated from Victoria Avenue (now called 2nd) with new stores and saloons accented by arched windows and handsome cornices. Coal kept the town���s embers burning even as a failed 1968 Winter Olympics bid kickstarted its destination skiing credentials. And today, Fernie Alpine Resort is thriving. Though when the powder nuts peel from the slopes, they often gravitate back to downtown���s heritage-hued 2nd Avenue, now colonized by chat-warmed caf��s, artsy boutiques and neighbourhood pubs. ���John Lee 12 W E S T W O R L D p12-13_TheStreet.indd 12 >> [ DECEMBER Christmas Downtown Light-Up JANUARY Kokanee Snow Dreams MARCH Griz Days The Go Spots SHOPS Beanpod���s antique chocolate machines churn out dreamy fondants and chunky bars, including espresso and lavender options (beanpod.ca), while across the street, Le Grand Fromage���s curdy treats include Kootenay Alpine Cheese (plan ahead for winepairing nights; legrandfromage.ca). Nearby, Fernie Arts Co-op offers photography, handmade soaps and Hobbity pottery by local artisans (fernieartscoop.com); fashion your own at Mixed Elements (just off 2nd), where for-sale artwork is coupled with drop-in classes, from sewing to jewellerymaking (592 3rd Avenue). EATS Bulging egg-and-cheddar toasties lure chilled-to-the-bone ski bums and Griz Days WINTER 2012 ] celebrants (pictured above) for breakfast at Big Bang Bagels (bigbangbagels.com), while pastries, dense and ���avourful soups and gossiping Fernians crowd the tables at Loaf (loafbakery.ca). Moroccan yam ���atbreads are the menu highlight at friendly Mug Shots (592 3rd Avenue), and for candlelit romance, Picnic ��� tucked into a rubble-stone DRINKS Cradle a cr��me br��l��e mocha and cake-sized cranberry-coconut cookie at wood-���oored Freshies (632 2nd Avenue), or nip to nearby Fernie Tea & Coffee House for a bone-warming chai matcha plus browsable book exchange (492 2nd Avenue). Apr��s ski, wind down at the Northern Bar & Stage ��� in a 1908 heritage building ��� with live music and a Fernie Brewing beer; the Big Caboose Red Ale gets my vote (561 2nd Avenue). Then stroll to funky Fernie Hotel & Pub for a nightcap (691 1st Avenue). WILD CARD Clawhammer Letterpress & Gallery ��� star of an artisan scene that rivals Nelson���s ��� is replete with local paintings and prints, many created by owner Michael Hepher on his century-old handpowered letterpresses (also deployed to print everything from business cards to beer coasters). It���s mesmerizing watching him work, but this isn���t just a spectator sport: book a workshop and you���ll soon be crafting your own chic woodblock originals (claw hammer.ca). Lee prints his own ���yers at Clawhammer: bcaa.com/clawhammer Y Member savings and bene���ts for B.C. winter travel: bcaa.com/roadtrips Jeff Topham 12-10-26 7:10 AM